About 35 miles northeast of my friend Judi's house, just outside of the little village of Glenn Ellen, California, sits a beautiful ranch, called "Beauty" that Jack London built up for his wife, Charmian. It has everything from wooded hills to acres of grape orchards. Most of it is in ruins now, but Charmian's house, now the Museum and the ranch house are still maintained. Charmian was the love of his life, and he intended to build her a castle here.
We spent more than four hours touring first the Museum, then walking down a long road to the ruins of the house that Jack was building for his sweetheart. It was supposed to last forever, but just days before they were to move into it, it was destroyed by fire. It is said that there were some rags lying about soaked with linseed oil that the workers were using on the interior wood. They spontaneously combusted and started the fire. After a nice picnic lunch, we drove to the parking lot and walked another road to the house where Jack and Charmian lived together and he did much of his writing. We looked at the ruins of the workers quarters and then walked down another road to the "Pig Palace" and 2 huge silos.
Charmian called the house that she built, after Jack's untimely death, "The House of Happy Walls." I thought it a curious name for a house, but as you walk through it, on many of the walls are tapestries that they brought back from their adventures to the South Pacific Islands. Tapa cloth and spears and reed mats are everywhere. And, I assume these gave her fond memories of the adventurous part of their life together.
The Dining Room in Charmian's House
Early in their married life, Jack decided to build himself a ship and the two of them could sail around the world. He did build the ship, and they did, in fact, sail all around the South Pacific. He became violently ill, however, so they had to sell the ship and find passage back home.
The Snark model
I thought it interesting that the valley where the ranch is, is called "Valley of the Moon" and Jack was fondly referred to as "The Wolf." Jack was only 40 years old, when he died of renal failure, November 22, 1916. At that time, they were living in the main house.
Dean, looking out over the vinyards
After spending much time in the Museum, we walked probably a quarter of a mile to see the little grave plot, where Jack and Charmian are burried. Jack chose this spot, because nearby there are two other graves of the Greenlaw children that they found. Jack wanted to be cremated and his ashes were placed under a huge rock. When Charmian died, her ashes were also placed there.
The rock, under whick are the ashes of Jack and Chaimian
One of the headstones of the Greenlaw children
We continued our walk, and came to the site of the mansion that was consumed by fire. Most of the walls and chimneys are still standing (with some help with braces), but the interior is completely gone. It was supposed to be absolutely fireproof, and would stand forever. There was an eery feeling about the place...like "death" and "loss." Something in Jack died with the loss of that house, and he went into a deep depression.
The front of the ruins of the "Wolf House."
Another view
An artists rendering of what the house was to be...such a shame
After lunch we visited the main house. It was a lovely place. I loved the "office" where Jack sought seclusion for his writing. It is lined with shelf after shelf of books. There are literally thousands of books in that room. Writing consumed him. He wrote more than 1,000 words a day, and he wrote it all by hand. Charmian was his typist, and it was she who transcribed all of his writing into typed form.
The house Jack and Charmian lived in...and where he died
Jack's writing room
We left the house and walked down yet another road, past the acres and acres of grape vinyards (still producing, but owned by others now) to what Jack lovingly called "The Pig Palace." He loved his pigs and built them their own space to live. Nearby, were his silos. Not sure what he stored in them...perhaps feed for the pigs or for his horses.
The "Pig Palace"
The two silos
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